First impressions of Antigua are how beautiful and walkable it is. Much of it has been restored to some of its original colonial splendor. It reminds us of Granada, Nicaragua, but on a larger scale with many more tourists and upscale shops.
We had time to settle into our homestay and wander around a bit. Joanie picked out a very lovely jacket for me that I look forward to showing off. I was happy with my little pot from Copan and the unroasted coffee beans and chocolate bars I've been collecting, but this was very special.
Right across the street from where we are staying, is a very fancy B & B, Meson Panza Verde, that has live music. So, after a nice chat about our journey and getting briefed on what to see in Antigua with a Polish-Canadian staying at our place, we headed across the street. A Cuban Jazz quartet was performing and the drummer and lead singer claims to be one of the originals from the Buena Vista Social Club!
Whether he is or not, he's an excellent musician and we had a great time dancing Salsa to the rhythms of piano, flute, guitar and vocals in the most atmospheric environment you can imagine. Wait until you see the photos, this is a 5 star B&B!
Joanie succumbed to traveler's stomach last night and is resting today. After washing up, I'm making this entry and doing some exploring on my own. For the first time, Joanie said she is looking forward to coming home. Me too! We miss you all and look forward to seeing you and sharing our amazing journey.
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| Our homestay at Casa Dona Olga's |
A shop had some gorgeous bathrobes but too rich for my pocketbook, unfortunately - over $60! From there I left the tourist traffic and walked to the Mercado and eventually found myself in the one devoted to Artesanas. A few gringos here and much more reasonable prices. I found a grande size pouch for a waterbottle as well as a photo album that will compliment the one we got last year in Costa Rica which still isn´t full. Found the barber shop we passed at the bus station and got my usual buzz cut and beard trim that I try to get before coming home. $2! Then the super mercado presented itself. I wandered around until I found myself in front of loaves of braided bread! Not light and eggy like challah, but it inspired me to buy a bottle of wine and to share a Jewish Shabbat for the residents and owner where we are staying - Olga´s Place at El Rosario, a very personal place that folks from all over have discovered through a friend of an old friend of Joanie´s. Everyone there was quite fascinated with the ritual and a lively discussion ensued that evening.
Joanie was ready to do some exploring so we walked to Casa Santa Domingo Hotel which incorporates the ruins of an old convent and includes several museums and a couple of crypts where the friars were buried.
The main museum shows pre-Columbian art, much of it functional urns and household items. alongside modern pieces that are in a similar theme, e.g animal, amor, etc. Most of these pieces were glass made by artists in Sweden and France. Gorgeous display and quite inspiring.
Went out a different exit and got very turned around,
but eventually found our way by a Jade shop and museum (pricey! but worth the gander) and the Centro de Culture where young musicians get lessons on keyboard, guitar and other instruments, possibly similar to what Steve wants to do Pana. There were also several tables of handicrafts that we had seen the day before and inspired Joanie to pick up some more gifts. The young man we were drawn to showed how the styles from the particular towns that were used for the heavy, traditional blouses had been carried into the bags and miscellaneous stuff that was now being marketed to tourists. Quite gorgeous stuff!
We stopped for a bit of live music in the Parque Central and then headed back for Shabbat, dinner and an early bedtime.
OUR FINAL DAY IN ANTIGUA - Clear skies beckoned us outside, so, after a breakfast of panqueques and fresh papaya, we headed out to find a free shuttle to a neighboring town where a coffee company had created 3 museums - coffee.
musical instruments, and textiles, the latter being traditional Mayan and after the Spanish conquest while the former was very much powered by modern technology.
There was an admission which had almost doubled since the last Lonely Planet guide, not too much of a surprise, and there were gift shops for each museum with mostly well priced goods, though the t-shirt and highest quality coffee were a bit pricey - $16 and $10/lb. respectively. There was a great CD we watched at the end that showed footage of many of the traditional ceremonies still done in the Mayan/Catholic tradition including the dance we witnessed in Rabinal. The film and traditional displays helped connect the dots for much of what we´ve experienced in our travels through Guatemala.
Back in the square there was another South American traditional group playing; this time without CD back up.
A group of folks with clown noses trooped through.
We visited an old Convent:
The place was being decorated for a wedding:
Still there was room to walk around and imagine the nuns living here:
Everywhere is a photo-op in this lovely city including our first cloudless view of Vulcan Aqua!
Each nun lived in her own chamber with a circular courtyard they all entered into:
We descended into a gem of an echo chamber, a place to sing, chant, hum:
And then out into the world again:
I stopped to admire a very small baby:
Along the street:
This was the couple getting married at the Convent where I sang:
We bought our hammock at this small market:
Yehudah liked these kites:
I liked this tall figure by the church:
And yet another bride and groom approaching the church in the town plaza:
The bride was definitely from the U.S. but we never saw the groom:
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