2/4-6/14 LAMU: CHOOSING FABRIC FOR ROBE, SWIMMING IN THE INDIAN OCEAN!

2/4-6/14 LAMU: CHOOSING FABRIC FOR ROBE, SWIMMING IN THE INDIAN OCEAN!

 

    Malik guides us through the narrow streets 

We started our morning at 6:30 am with Malik leading us through the labyrinth of Lamu streets and pointing out the various buildings, their history, including what European had or was restoring it and if they were doing it with the intent to honor Swahili tradition or not, and how not to get lost when going back to his home. (Turn left at the Donkey Sanctuary, go straight to the dead end, go right 3 times, and call out for Wilson to open the door. (Also his place is just a few turns past the well, which is marked on the Lonely Planet walking tour.)) It was fascinating, especially the Swiss couple who gave him and his German partner, Norbert, advice on keeping the traditional styles of construction. They fled back to Switzerland when the young man they had taken under their wing betrayed their trust. 

 

Amazingly ornate doors representing many different styles. Malik's is Omani. The benches outside the door were for business discussions as they were not allowed inside. Originally, it was the women who were the landowners. 

 

Thick coral walls covered with lime meant to last centuries. 

 

 

A donkey with a load of coral bricks; one stands in a doorway to let it pass

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Malik showed us that using concrete instead of lime resulted in the plaster separating from the coral bricks. The prices have gone astronomical on buying a rundown building and wealthy people are spending hundreds of thousands of dollars restoring them, often with very poor results because of using non-traditional materials. We passed by the home of a very wealthy Jewish lawyer who married into a Swahili family, works in Saudi Arabia, and renovated the house in non-traditional ways, spending millions of dollars.

Three hours went by before we returned and had a very filling breakfast of juice, fresh fruit (it's mango season!), vegetable/cheese omelet, a falafel like dumpling, a sweet roll, delicious crepes, and tea (Malik had just brought back some of his favorites from Nairobi) and very strong, Kenyan coffee. Malik has been having knee problems with his miniscus, so walks with a cane, plus has high blood pressure and trouble with cholesterol, so he is changing his diet to oatmeal and bran for breakfast plus eliminating many foods.  He is a vegetarian and just quite the character. He discovered the virtues of beets, both raw and cooked, while we were there, and was delighted by how much he liked them.

 

 

                Gate leading to the central square. 

Central square. In the afternoon men gather to play Bao, 

an ancient game played with rocks on a wooden board with lots of depressions. 

We spent many hours going from tailor to tailor to choose material for a robe for Yehudah and looking at various dresses and such for Joanie.  Prices differed considerably, but all were very reasonable and the item could be sewed in a few hours.  We decided to sleep on it and went back the following morning, chose an outrageously gorgeous piece of fabric and it was sewn to perfection, following the pattern of Yehudah's old robe, a gift from Jay Roller's trip to Bali many many years ago and now very holey. 

Joanie with daughter and father, owners of the Hapa Hapa Cafe 

The first afternoon we had late lunch at the Hapa Hapa Cafe, saying hello to the folks there from Ami and Arden.  The mother, who wasn't there, had converted to Judaism, and the daughter remembered Arden and Ami with fondness.  We took photos for them in greetings.  We had a great conversation with the waiter who is from Malindi, where we are next going. 

We visited the Lamu Museum as our host suggested we do. The guide was great, with room after room opening to more history.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

            Joanie demos an ancient blender

 

       Our guide demos an ancient corn sheller

 

 

A pasta maker foretelling the coming of the Italian tourists 

 

This is how the instrument below was played

  

 

 

 

                                     Bee hive

 

Musical instruments. We had just missed the annual Mahindi music festival

 

      What the Lamu harbor looked like in the 1950's

 

 

 

 

          Rooftop view of the mosque next door

2/5/14: LAMU DAY 2

 

           Breakfast is served 

 

 

 

 

 

 

              Yo with very friendly cat

The next morning we had poached eggs plus more crepes with the amazing fruit.  These are photos of the interior of our room: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was a stool to get into our bed, which was a replica of one from the 15th Century

 

 

After breakfast we went to look at the fabric at the second shop we had looked into. We looked at the fabric again and knew it was it! The owner was home tending to her children, but we did some negotiating and got the price down to $27.   The robe would be done by the afternoon.

We had arranged to take a boat to spend the afternoon across the channel at Lamu Beach. On the way the boatman took us for a boat side tour of Shela, the next town on the island:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                    Repairing nets

 

 

A house that Malik was asked for advice. Built by a North Korean woman born in China and living in San Francisco. It was featured in an issue of Architecture Digest. 

These women from the States had moved from Malik's to a place in Shela -
We saw them on the beach from our boat and waved hello! 

 

Many wealthy homes are built to look like fortresses 

 

 

 

This trip across the channel was to another island, Manda, with a pristine beach, place to have lunch, and warm blue shallow waters of the Indian Ocean, with shaded open huts with wonderful, big mat lounges and giant pillows. 

 

The dream was easily within our grasp. The Fisherman behind Joanie is painting the hull of his boat. With the tide out, it had just enough time to dry before the water returned and set it afloat. 

 

                Makuna matata all the way!

 

Lone Massai salesman set up a table of beaded jewelry below us. We were later to find the same necklaces for 80% less! You win some you,lose some, but everybody ends up happy. 

 

              Is this a mirage? Am I seeing things?

Wow!  The ocean was divine and we swam several times for a distance, enjoying the company of a couple from England with a 2 1/2 yr old boy named Benjamin, who was wandering around naked in the warm shallow waters and on the beach.  We bought several pieces of Masaii jewelry from a thin, handsome young fellow on the beach.  Two Australian women were in another area plus a group of Kenyans.  Each group had their own area.  Swimming in the Indian Ocean!  We had finally immersed in these waters and now felt at one with the environment.

 

                       Kenyan houseboat

 

The daughter of the Hapa hapa's son is the little guy on the left. 

 

          Last sunset in Lamu. At least until we return. 

The boatman picked up a group of children and teachers from Shela, which he had showed us from the boat - a long beach without shade, but also very beautiful.  It was fun watching the kids interact, reminding Joanie of Yehudit and Matan.  

Below are night shots in the palatial interior of our suite:

 

                 Trying out the new robe. 

 

His Kingly presence!

 

  

Her highness in turban

Her highness on palatial throne chair

Vermeer lighting

2/6/14:  LEAVING TOO SOON

 

Wilson was Malik's main man. He called him "Warp" or something like that. 

 

 

Waiting for the boat to take us to the airport on Manda, same island where we swam yesterday

Today we are sadly already leaving.  We have discovered free wi-fi at a rooftop restaurant, Yehudah is going to the ATM, we take a boat to the small airport on Mandu, cost is just $51 each and saves us traveling for 6 hrs back on the crowded bus on the rocky, rutted road.  Sad to be going.  Dolphins off the coast of Shela yet unseen, unexplored.  More garments that could have been tailored....

 

                   One last photo as we depart

 

                               Lamu Airport

Photos from Plane:

 

 

 

The plane ride was 25 minutes! - amazingly simple! We met an Italian couple from NYC while waiting, plus the English couple with young Benjamin from the day before sat across from us.  Imagine 25 minute flight for $51 per person instead of 6 hrs at $10 per person - for a small $41 more we had the whole day ahead of us without feeling exhausted!

We decided to hang with the NY couple and to all go together in a tuk tuk to an ancient Swahili ruin called Gede.  The entrance guys were happy to store our bags in their locked room for us.The husband stayed back at the entrance with the tuk tuk driver while the three of us went off for a 45 minute tour with a guide.  It was just so very hot that the tour was very sweaty, but interesting.  The photos are here:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Joanie demonstrates how the Sultan would relieve himself in his private chambers

 

                   Men's ball field 

 

 

 

 

                       Sycamore trees

 

 

 

 

 

 

       The museum had some interesting stuff as well

We had ideas of going to a lovely Italian beach but Yehudah decided that we should skip it and head to Mombasa, again with this couple, so we boarded a matutu or minibus that said it was an express, but of course it stopped to leave off and pick people up constantly, crowding in people to the max.  A cop stopped the vehicle at one point and the one extra guy in the back had to get off plus the cop talked about seat belt requirements.  I think I was the only person who actually had a working seat belt. Then they pulled off the highway and jammed us all into another matutu. Our companions had never experienced any matutu ride like this one, but we knew better, especially after Central America. 

 

back through Mombasa we took another photo of the synagogue sign

We went with the couple to their chosen hotel, but they had gotten a good price on the internet and the place wouldn't give us the same price, so they suggested we go to The New Jundan Hotel about half a mile away, which we did.  We are now staying here.  Good price, great room, good restaurant with great food at reasonable prices. And this place is featured in Lonely Planet! Biryani chicken big enough for us to share for dinner.  Breakfast included - great Indian bread, omelet, sausage, whole banana, large piece of watermelon, tea or coffee.  The final morning I asked for veggie alternative to the sausage and got cooked cabbage, which was pretty good with the egg in a bun.