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Sunday, March 02, 2014

2/18/14 SOUTHERN ZANZIBAR: JOZANI FOREST and KIZIMKAZI

 2/18/14 SOUTHERN ZANZIBAR: JOZANI FOREST & KIZIMKAZI

On Monday, we found ourselves in Paje and soon found we were in the wrong place. The wind was merciless (guess that's why the kite surfers go there). Joanie did research on the southern tip of the island, found a place called L'Oasis Beach Hotel on Trip Advisor with prices cut by 50%, and connected with a local guide recommended by a couple on the same site.  She also read about the special Chumbe Island Coral Park, reserved only for snorkelers and considered our alternatives. Surprisingly, we were able to easily get a refund on the additional 2 nights and we moved to the other side of the island where we're much happier. 

Spent a couple of hours at Jozani Forest hanging out with the red colobus monkeys...

Momma nursing baby
Momma nursing baby 2
touring the tropical forest, and walking the boardwalk through the mangroves. 

 
 
 
 

We were in a group with a couple from Paris and another couple from Germany.  The French folks admired how unlike we are from other American tourists they have met who were always attached to a large group, never venturing out among the locals, taking tour buses and taxis vs. the crowded, chaotic, local buses. They were bemoaning the fact that there were no buses around to take them to the park, so they had to spend a lot more and take a taxi. Our guide was bright and knowledgeable, including all the Latin names for the trees and plants he told us about.

Then we headed south to Kizimkazi and got a great deal on a room at a fancy resort, $43, plus Joanie managed to snag free snorkeling gear. Just ask! We promptly put it in action and swam out to the nearby reef and got in an hour of fish watching. Planning more snorkeling and a dolphin trip tomorrow. Looks like we'll be having a grand finale. 

We met a Russian fellow, Genia, who took us farther out on the reef and will join us for the dolphin and more snorkeling in the morning.  This place is just gorgeous.  Our room looks west out on the Indian Ocean.  We have a large four posted bed, chairs in the room and just outside the door there are wonderful covered areas for sitting that jut over the ocean with stairways one walks down to the water for swimming.  The coral is very close here.  The water is calm, no winds, and there are two villages, one on each side at about 20 minutes away each.  It is the polar opposite of Paje. Joanie had a conversation with a Danish/Swedish couple who have been here for 8 days and know their way around the area and who to go to for what. They were both dressed in Muslim robes and head coverings and were on their way to Stonetown to have a special dinner before going home tomorrow. Later, they told Yehudah about the luscious, tapa-style, 5 plate meal they had on the rooftop of Emerson Spice, a fancy hotel near the Zanzibar Coffee Hotel. 

Dinner, also looking out at the ocean, was wonderful: fresh fish dishes, one barracuda, the second a coconut crusted local fish.  Yum!

We met with Ibrahim Juma, a young local to plan our morning tomorrow.  I was surprised at how young he is, thinking he was an older captain type.  Hopefully the weather will cooperate in the morning.  The rain comes and goes here very quickly.




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