12/28/13: RWANDA: "MUGANDA"- COMMUNITY SERVICE DAY

12/28/13: RWANDA: "MUGANDA" - COMMUNITY SERVICE DAY 

Muganda Morning!

This morning, we worked alongside dozens of people doing community service on the last Saturday of the month. "Muganda" is an ancient custom and the word denotes it's origins when each member of a community would contribute one tree to the building of a house for someone. It has been revitalized by the President of Rwanda for the purpose of restoring unity to the peoples of the country and for helping with community projects. As you know, the fabric of the Rwandan society was torn by the Genocide, which took place in 1994. This was not an isolated event, as smaller atrocities occurred from 1959 on. This stemmed from the way the Belgian colonists divided the tribes, using the minority Tutsis to govern the majority Hutus (85%). (This reminded me how the Polish aristocracy used the Jews as the tax collectors, earning them the status of a despised minority.)

Morning shot of Volcanoes

We hauled volcanic rocks out of a stream bed and carried to a road in need of repair. We were accompanied by Pastor Gerrard, who tore some palm fronds off a tree and made them into a protective head covering so we could carry them on our heads. The young children were drawn to us, carrying small stone in their hands, and holding one of our hands as we walked. We walked back and forth with very large stones on our heads about five times, in line with perhaps 150 other Rwandans.

Community Service Work - gathering rocks

Fixing Potholes 

Yo with his kid helpers

 Once the job was done, a local meeting was called and these residents gathered to hear their local leaders, who mostly harangued them about individuals drinking too much at the end of the year, wife beaters and child abusers, and criminal activities in the area.  People spoke out about solving problems, speaking openly about not repeating solutions that didn't work last year and such. 

Community Meeting

  Two young people, a brother and sister, attached themselves to us and did some translating and discussing with us. The young woman took a turn to speak as the leader of the local young people. Her focus is on exposing domestic abuse.  

Young Woman Leader speaking about exposing Domestic Abuse

At the end, the local leader asked them to introduce us. Joanie spoke about our work in Rwanda and the Pastor told everyone we were Israelites. All this brought out a great deal of applause and smiles.  

Joanie was feeling a bit under the weather still, slight sore throat and swollen glands on one side. So, after lunch, she had a rest. Instead of going on the hike organized by Amahoro Tours, we took advantage of Pastor Gerard's willingness to accompany us up to one of the lakes near where he was born, close to the Ugandan border. 

We had to walk all the way into town to get the bus, even though it turns close to his street. After we got out of the micro we were accosted by about 10 moto drivers, each trying to put a helmet into our hands. The Pastor seemed to be laughing while negotiating and he eventually selected 3 motos and we got on for a way-too-fast-for-comfort ride down a bumpy road. The rewards were there, though, as we came upon a large, beautiful lake with the three dominant volcanoes standing across from it. 

Lake Ruhonda 

Joanie and Yehudah by Hydro Plant on Lake Ruhonda

Unfortunately, today was not as clear and the pictures weren't worthwhile. We got off the motos next to a large hydro plant that was powered by another lake which Pastor Gerard said had drinking quality water in it when he was growing up. He called for the boat to come from the (Lake) Ruhonda Resort to come get us and we waited a short while with several young people. Meanwhile, we observed some snowy egrets and other waterfowl as well as swallows feeding in the shallows and air around us. It was lovely to be outside town in a more natural environment. 

Volcanoes in distance 

Villagers in dugout

Lake Ruhonda Resort - President of Rwanda comes here with guests

Islands in Lake Ruhonda

Ruhonda Resort Room

Thatched Roof of one Resort Room

Great Ceiling of Thatched Roof

We were shuttled to the Resort, which we learned had only opened 2-3 years ago and is a favorite hangout for the President and his guests. It was a cut above budget at $100/night with breakfast and boat ferry included, but it appeared to be empty at the moment. The rooms are in round buildings with roofs and colors similar to traditional African houses, with one tall thatched roof building, all with Rwandan style showers and flush toilets. We wandered around awhile and then settled into a table for a round of beverages. We shared a pot of green tea with lemon, which made the trip for Joanie as she was dreaming of such to help heal her swollen glands.

After taking the return ferry, we made the journey back after Pastor Gerard called the motos and they met us as we walked back up the road, passing maize and sorghum fields, talking with young people walking with us.  

Maize Fields

Maize and Sorghum Fields

 Getting on the bus was a bit challenging as there were a lot of people waiting and very little room on any of them. One woman got really aggressive and shoved Yehudah out of the way, but there was only one seat and we were three. When we got back to town, the streets were very wet. We dodged a large downpour. Not unusual in this area where weather can hit very specific areas and not adjacent ones.  

Our final evening Poppa Gerard queried us about why Jews don't accept Jesus as the Messiah.  People here revere Jews and think that Jews do accept Jesus.  So our information was a big surprise to him. We told him more about Jews and Christianity than anyone else had and he was receptive to hear what we had to say.  He is quite a scholar and really open to learning - don't know if the discussion dampened his enthusiasm towards Jews.  We suggested he study Hebrew with the Abayudaya.

12/27/13: RWANDA: MUSANZE COMPASSIONATE LISTENING TRAINING #6

12/27/13: RWANDA: MUSANZE COMPASSIONATE LISTENING TRAINING #6

Musanze CL Group 1

Without realizing it, we've been in harmony with the Psalms. Our first Sunday in the church In Kigali, you may remember the pastor gave a teaching based on Psalm 121 and we sang the melody for the first two lines as composed by Reb Aryeh zt"l, but I hadn't remembered that the rest of it spoke of being watched over by God and kept from harm. We had also forgotten that "Hinay Mah Tov,"  the main dance we have been teaching, comes from Psalm 133. We were told this morning that this passage was the main one used by Rwandan Pastors after the Genocide to unite people! Most of our organizers, participants, and locations have been in and connected to churches, specifically Quaker. 

Musanze CL Training Group 2

Another thing that just became clear is that many of the participants in each church are working with children under the auspices of an International Compassion organization which tries to find homes for orphans and provides them with food, clothing, housing, and tuition for school. 

Musanze CL Training 3

Joanie has been using a poem by Thich Nhat Hahn with the line "I am clear as the water." Yesterday we saw our first clear stream coming down from the mountains, the first clear stream we have seen in Rwanda. We truly felt we were at home.  

We are staying in the most clean, aesthetically fine and well organized home in our homestays with all our Rwandan hosts.  All have been gracious and wonderful, but here we are given water and soap to wash our hands before meals, like we do each Shabbat.  The bathroom is without a seated toilet or shower by American standards, but everything is spotless, there's a large barrel of water in the corner with a pitcher to use and a separate area for bathing.  It is very wonderful.  We received warm water this morning and I washed my hair for the first time on this trip!  (This is Joanie) There are five daughters here, so plenty of helping hands for the woman of the house. For breakfast we had bread, hardboiled eggs, bananas and African tea which Yehudah puts coffee into and I put in an extra tea bag for more tea flavor. African tea consists of boiled, whole milk with a bit of tea to flavor it. 

16 participants are here for the workshop today, smaller than most of our other groups, a very manageable size.We are following the same format and this is our final workshop in Rwanda. Most are over 30 and again a mix of different professions, but none of the unemployed students or new graduates. 

Musanze Training Lunch

Participants were all engaged and wonderful.  Our one volunteer example story was of a young woman having problems with her husband, that they were not able to own their own home because she thinks that he squanders their money and she doesn't have a job. The exercise was "Stepping into another person's shoes," so she needed to speak from his perspective as well. It was very moving to hear her do so and to hear what she learned from the experience. The pastor here intends to really get the monthly practice groups going.

Musanze CL Trainees with CL Certificates

Woman who wanted to take photo with Joanie

Fellow who wanted to take photo with Yehudah

After the training, almost 40 kids showed up and Joanie taught them several dances. 

Che Che Kule

Hokey Pokey

(Joanie) I did more dances here than elsewhere, including the Anne Barlin "it's raining today" which allowed the children some creative options, although they pretty much just followed me.  We did it also as "it's sunny today!"

Musanze kids

As in Nyundo, they wanted to show us some of their dances. Pastor Gerard's daughter got the drum from the church and the kids went into action along with two other women from the training.  

Musanze kids doing their dances 1

Musanze kids doing their dances 2

Musanze kids doing their dances 3

After we had a short rest, we headed into town to load a few more minutes on the cell phone and to look for Amahoro Tours, the only locally operated company that arranges hikes and trips into the mountains. They were highly recommended by both The Lonely Planet guide and Trip Advisor. We followed the directions and found our way up what seemed to be a dead end, so we asked someone and they asked someone else who directed us further up and sure enough we found it! We went in and got a ton of information including the fact that the gorilla tracking reservations weren't even close to full. So much for needing to book months in advance during the high season. The most reasonable offering was a 6-8 hour hike up one of the mountain paths for $17/pp. and transportation costs were minimal. (Not only is the gorilla tracking cost $750, but one had to arrange one's own transportation for $80-100!). We chalked that one up as a possibility for tomorrow after the morning service project that all Rwandans are required to engage in once a month.   

Yehudah decided to get his beard trimmed at the local barber shop!  Here are the photos:

Yo getting a trim in Musanze barber shop 

Barber finishing up!

12/26/13: RWANDA: TOWERING MOUNTAINS, SQUEALING TIRES, BLOOMING LUPINE

12/26/13: RWANDA: TOWERING MTS., SQUEALING TIRES, BLOOMING LUPINE

BUS FROM KIGALI TO MUSANZE

We were up at 6 and ready to go by 7. The water was off so not sure how the toilet got flushed and the milk had spoiled so we had black coffee and tea with fruit. The bread they offered didn't look too appetizing so we passed. We had gotten such an early start that Joanie thought we'd walk, but I knew it was steep and a good 25 minutes away plus the motos would hassle us all the way. So, when we walked a short ways to the main street, we were immediately approached by a moto and, after a little bargaining, we were on our way. I wasn't sure if both of us and my huge, rolling backpack would fit, but, with it up on my thighs, we were a snug cargo. The motos stopped at one end of the bus station and we were immediately accosted by 4 or more guys from one of the bus companies. When I told them where we were headed, they got very excited and each one wanted to grab my bag and sell us tickets. Joanie got defiant and kept them back somewhat, but one guy paid for the motos and escorted us to the ticket seller. I guess there's a bit of competition and these guys are either hired or paid a commission. Who knows, but chalk another one up to experience. 

Is it more frightening to be in a bus on a precipitous, narrow, insanely rough road at 10-15 mph or howling around curves, tires squealing on solid pavement, flying around everything on the road at 40-50 mph? Hard to say, but we survived both. Unfortunately, Joanie's seat mate had stomach problems from the curves, so Joanie moved away to avoid feeling nauseous herself. Fortunately, we were mostly distracted by the gorgeous views on both sides of us. We're in the Virunga Mountains, a chain of dormant volcanoes which form the western borders of both Rwanda and Uganda and separate them from the DRC. They are steep and shrouded in mist and home to the families of mountain gorillas that Dian Fossey is given so much credit for saving. We will not be among the select few who will visit them as the price is steep, $500-750! But we do hope to doing some hiking before turning east toward the hotter, flatter, drier portions of East Africa. 

Playing with baby at Xerox Store

We stayed in touch with Papa Gerrard, our organizer and host in Musanze, along the way. He met us at the bus station shortly after we arrived. We were determined to get the photocopying out of the way right off the bat, so he sent his daughter, one of five, off on motos with our luggage and we walked around the center of town looking for the right spot. The cyber cafe had a tiny machine and was asking 5 times the price. The next one was on a block that had lost power. The third was a charm, but the price had to be negotiated. Joanie did a lot of bargaining only to discover that the price was less than anywhere else for the volume of copying we were doing.  We had a fair amount of time on our hands and Joanie started playing with the owner's infant. In her inimitable way, she soon had him smiling and laughing, plus the momma and poppa. We laid out the pages of the booklet as they came off the copier and, with help from the wife of the owner, we collated assembly line style and kept up with the copier. They even had a heavy duty stapler which made the job easier and the copies sturdier. 

Before we hopped on motos, we exchanged some US$ for Ugandan shillings so we'll be prepared to cross the border at the end of the week. This money changer had a simple shop selling men's shoes and shirts and would only accept $100 bills, which have the highest exchange rate. We had already checked on the going rate so stuck with it and got it. Even a small commission is helpful in this poor country. 

We spent a few hours at an Internet Cafe, then Yehudah took these photos on our walk back to Papa Gerard's.  We turned into another church area and a fellow there walked us to our correct spot.  We noted the landmarks for tomorrow so we can do better finding our way to our temporary home.

Rwanda does seem less corrupt than other countries in East Africa

Wedding at Courthouse

Lots of shops have biblical names

Muslim woman approaching Christian shop

Musanze Sunset

  

Virungas enshrouded in clouds

Virunga Sunset 

12/25/13: RWANDA: GISENYI CHRISTMAS DAY

12/25/13:  GISENYI, RWANDA: CHRISTMAS DAY

CHURCH CHOIR

A slower start today, as everyone slept in until about 7. There is no tradition of gift giving for Christmas here. One of the Pastor's sons walked us the half hour walk to the Friends' Evangelical Church. (The person who first originated Compassionate Listening was a Quaker and most of the churches sponsoring our training have been Friends churches) On the way, we passed a small mosque with a large field next to it which was filled with a huge group of worshipers. Other churches were filled with dancing and singing. The weather here has mostly been in the 70's, but the high humidity has made even the nights pretty sweaty. Many shops were closed this morning, but not all. 

Choir of Visiting Church

The Pastor had someone sit next to us to translate, which was helpful and added a bit to our understanding. Much of the preaching and singing was about how much Jesus loves you and that you need to have him in your house, with great spirit and passion.The church's youth choir, Voice of Angels Choir, sang as well as the choirs from two other neighboring churches which had joined them for Christmas. Part of the entertainment was watching a bird fly in through the ventilation holes in the walls to its nest.

Visiting Church Adult Choir

Those of you who have ever complained about the length of P'nai Or of Portland services should come to one of these! It started at 9:30 a.m. and we didn't get out until almost 2! Then they started a second service for those who wanted to receive communion. But the energetic dancing and singing held our interest pretty much throughout. These people have no hesitancy in expressing their joy! It reminded me of my reintroduction to Judaism via Renewal as well as a marvelous experience at the Carlebach Shul when Rabbi Sammy Intrador was there. I attended on my way to Israel and it was his Ufruf, right before his wedding. He was leaping into the air and, I swear, he was aloft more than on the ground.

Marcel and Francois leading the singing

The Pastor shared the pulpit with the pastors from the other churches as well as lay leaders from his church. At one point he looked straight at me and, with a smile on his face, said there are still some who deny Jesus as the King of Kings. But we've really never felt any judgment from him, only total acceptance. Both Joanie and I got a chance to express why we were in Rwanda and our gratitude for the Guardian Angels, him and many others,who have guided us throughout our travels in Rwanda. 

Pastor Etienne blessing new members of the Church

After the service, Francois, the organizer of our Gisenyi training, guided us back to his home where we had lunch with him and his wife. They have a little boy, a 2 month old girl, (who Joanie got laughs out of when playing "wind wind" with her) and a teenage sister living with them. The sister received a care package from a potential pen pal in Kentucky 6 months ago when a church group came from the US. They wanted us to send her a letter from the sister, so Joanie put one together, answering the same questions as the girl in the US did and we took some photos to include.  Joanie also explained some of the things in the package Florence had received. like underarm deodorant, which doesn't exist here. They really don't receive mail, so we included Francois's email address as a better way to communicate. We showed them pictures of our families and a big clap of thunder announced that rain was again coming.  These people have no hesitancy expressing their joy! It was time to go back to the Pastor's house and start packing for our final destination in Rwanda.  

Francois with family

Family outside their home

Florence Mutuyimana

Francois and baby

Joanie explaining items in package to family

Tomorrow we leave for Musanze/Rohengeri. - the coldest location in this country, close to the Virunga Mountains and the location where Diane Fossey studied the gorillas.  It costs $750 per person to visit the gorillas for 1 hr in Rwanda - the country's largest money-maker.  For a Rwandan the cost is $15. The lowest fee during the rainy season is $350.  It can take from 1-5 hrs to get to the gorillas, depending where they are.  Our plan is to take a several hour hike in the area with a guide provided by the local organizer and we shall see what happens.  This might cost us around $50 each.

Etienne's son is right now making chapattis on an iron plate with a fire underneath.  We shall see what is for dinner.  We saw lots of potato peeling when we got home.

Dinner was special - giant, thick French fries, with real French fries curves plus the regulars - spaghetti, sauce, beans, small chicken wings - and the yummy chapattis.  The guys - all 4-5 of them - piled their plates high with only fries and sauce.  After we checked email on their computer, were given warm water from the kitchen for a bath in the bathroom.  The tub is only hooked up for cold water.  Clean and fresh, ready for sleep.  Everyone sits in the living room speaking in Kinyarwanda.