12/26/13: RWANDA: TOWERING MOUNTAINS, SQUEALING TIRES, BLOOMING LUPINE

12/26/13: RWANDA: TOWERING MTS., SQUEALING TIRES, BLOOMING LUPINE

BUS FROM KIGALI TO MUSANZE

We were up at 6 and ready to go by 7. The water was off so not sure how the toilet got flushed and the milk had spoiled so we had black coffee and tea with fruit. The bread they offered didn't look too appetizing so we passed. We had gotten such an early start that Joanie thought we'd walk, but I knew it was steep and a good 25 minutes away plus the motos would hassle us all the way. So, when we walked a short ways to the main street, we were immediately approached by a moto and, after a little bargaining, we were on our way. I wasn't sure if both of us and my huge, rolling backpack would fit, but, with it up on my thighs, we were a snug cargo. The motos stopped at one end of the bus station and we were immediately accosted by 4 or more guys from one of the bus companies. When I told them where we were headed, they got very excited and each one wanted to grab my bag and sell us tickets. Joanie got defiant and kept them back somewhat, but one guy paid for the motos and escorted us to the ticket seller. I guess there's a bit of competition and these guys are either hired or paid a commission. Who knows, but chalk another one up to experience. 

Is it more frightening to be in a bus on a precipitous, narrow, insanely rough road at 10-15 mph or howling around curves, tires squealing on solid pavement, flying around everything on the road at 40-50 mph? Hard to say, but we survived both. Unfortunately, Joanie's seat mate had stomach problems from the curves, so Joanie moved away to avoid feeling nauseous herself. Fortunately, we were mostly distracted by the gorgeous views on both sides of us. We're in the Virunga Mountains, a chain of dormant volcanoes which form the western borders of both Rwanda and Uganda and separate them from the DRC. They are steep and shrouded in mist and home to the families of mountain gorillas that Dian Fossey is given so much credit for saving. We will not be among the select few who will visit them as the price is steep, $500-750! But we do hope to doing some hiking before turning east toward the hotter, flatter, drier portions of East Africa. 

Playing with baby at Xerox Store

We stayed in touch with Papa Gerrard, our organizer and host in Musanze, along the way. He met us at the bus station shortly after we arrived. We were determined to get the photocopying out of the way right off the bat, so he sent his daughter, one of five, off on motos with our luggage and we walked around the center of town looking for the right spot. The cyber cafe had a tiny machine and was asking 5 times the price. The next one was on a block that had lost power. The third was a charm, but the price had to be negotiated. Joanie did a lot of bargaining only to discover that the price was less than anywhere else for the volume of copying we were doing.  We had a fair amount of time on our hands and Joanie started playing with the owner's infant. In her inimitable way, she soon had him smiling and laughing, plus the momma and poppa. We laid out the pages of the booklet as they came off the copier and, with help from the wife of the owner, we collated assembly line style and kept up with the copier. They even had a heavy duty stapler which made the job easier and the copies sturdier. 

Before we hopped on motos, we exchanged some US$ for Ugandan shillings so we'll be prepared to cross the border at the end of the week. This money changer had a simple shop selling men's shoes and shirts and would only accept $100 bills, which have the highest exchange rate. We had already checked on the going rate so stuck with it and got it. Even a small commission is helpful in this poor country. 

We spent a few hours at an Internet Cafe, then Yehudah took these photos on our walk back to Papa Gerard's.  We turned into another church area and a fellow there walked us to our correct spot.  We noted the landmarks for tomorrow so we can do better finding our way to our temporary home.

Rwanda does seem less corrupt than other countries in East Africa

Wedding at Courthouse

Lots of shops have biblical names

Muslim woman approaching Christian shop

Musanze Sunset

  

Virungas enshrouded in clouds

Virunga Sunset